Washoku Onodera in Kagurazaka: One Omakase Course, Eight Seasonal Dishes

Five minutes on foot from Iidabashi Station's west exit, on the fourth floor of a building in the backstreets of Kagurazaka. Washoku Onodera is also walkable from Ushigome-Kagurazaka and Kagurazaka stations. Step off the elevator into a white-wood interior that feels more like walking into someone's home than a restaurant. It puts you at ease right away. There are 10 counter seats and a private tatami room with sunken seating (3–6 guests).

The only option is the omakase course (¥13,000 plus tax, service charge separate). Chef Kazuyuki Onodera handles everything from prep to plating, solo.

Eight Dishes, No Fixed Menu

The course runs through eight stages: appetizer, soup, sashimi, grilled, simmered, vinegared, steamed, and rice. Ingredients change with the season. Spring brings whitebait and bamboo shoots; winter, fugu shirako (pufferfish milt).

If the chef can't source ingredients he's satisfied with, he'll cancel the reservation.

The closing dish that comes up most often is the setsuki aji takikomi gohan — horse mackerel cooked into rice. The umami soaks into every grain, and the aroma when the lid comes off is something. You can take home whatever you don't finish.

Aramasa, Kakurei, Jikon: Local Sake Paired With the Course

Sake is sourced from across Japan. Aramasa from Akita, Kakurei from Niigata, Jikon from Mie, among others. Shochu and wine are available too.

If you're not sure what to drink, ask Onodera-san to pair something with each dish. The course format works well for trying a different sake with every plate.

10 Counter Seats and a Private Room

At the counter, you're close to the chef. You can watch him work and hear about the ingredients. Many guests come alone.

The private tatami room in the back has sunken seating for 3–6 guests. No shared tables. The restaurant also accommodates children and wheelchair users.

Fourth floor of a Kagurazaka building, one course only, reservations turned away if the ingredients aren't right. There's something refreshing about that.